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At Brown’s Ranch Trailhead. [photo by Ralph]
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Lin, Kevin, Ramona, Ralph, Carl, Billie, Terry, Neil, Chuck, Laurie,
Tom, Li, Deirdre, Michael, Sharon, Jeanne, Susan, Barry, Joe
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Tom carefully studies the preserve map. [photo by Li]
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On a cool and partly cloudy Saturday morning in mid-December, 19 Arizona Trailblazers
gather at the Brown’s Ranch Trailhead, located at the far north end of Alma School
Parkway in the Northern Region of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve. Our goal for today is to
complete a double-loop hike around both Brown’s Mountain and Cone Mountain,
with an optional spur trail to the summit of Brown’s Mountain.
The McDowell Sonoran Preserve offers some of the most scenic and accessible hiking within
the McDowell Mountain Range.
Michael also discusses an optional trail extension for those hikers who wish to get in another
couple of miles of hiking today. This hike was last done by the Trailblazers in November, 2013,
so I decided that six years was a long enough break between hikes.
Some hikes we seem to repeat year after year, while we sometimes skip five to ten years or
more between other hikes. Too many trails and not enough time.
After a quick round of introductions, a few group pictures, and finally passing out maps and
discussing the trail route, we start the hike at 8:20 AM.
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This barrel cactus is getting a bit top heavy. [photo by Li]
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Watch out for those sharp spines, ladies! [photo by Tom]
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This giant saguaro seems to have lost its head. [photo by Jeanne]
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This is the way, Trailblazers! [photo by Li]
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Ocotillo bloom. [photo by Ralph]
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A busy bee. [photo by Lin]
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And since I didn’t have quite enough trail maps for everyone, I caution all hikers to stay
with someone with a map, since it’s far too easy to make a wrong turn at any one of
these trail junctions. Each of the 12 trail junctions is basically a node that connects either two
or three different trails.
Without a map, which trail do you take? However we do have at least eight two-way radios
among us so we can stay in touch with one another to help ensure that no one strays off course.
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The always upbeat Lin, with Brown’s Mountain in the background. [photo by Li]
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Deirdre methodically works her way up the trail. [photo by Lin]
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Trailblazers slowly grind their way up the switchbacks to Brown’s Mountain. [photo by Lin]
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We continue to make our way higher up the trail. [photo by Li]
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Billie, Terry, and Neil share a moment on the trail. [photo by Li]
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The desert continues to drop away below us. [photo by Ralph]
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Deirdre, Kevin, Billie, Neil, and Lin at the trail overlook. [photo by Li]
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Tom and Michael at the overlook. [photo by Li]
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Like so many of Arizona’s trails and trailheads, there’s an interesting and storied
history behind the name Brown’s Ranch Trailhead. Brown’s Mountain is actually
one of only two ancient volcanic sites in the present-day Scottsdale area. Who would have known
or even suspected that?
Unfortunately, most of the many hikers and mountain bikers who use this trailhead and the
many trails in the area today have no idea or perhaps even no interest in this history.
But some of us do, and I would like to share some of that history with anyone who may be
interested.
It all began with E.O. Brown, an established businessman who migrated to Arizona from
Wisconsin in 1901, buying up tracts of land that would continue to eventually grow and expand
over two generations into a cattle ranching empire that would later become the DC Ranch,
sprawling across 44,000 acres of rugged desert on the western slopes of the McDowell Mountains.
The Lower Ranch ran from present-day Shea Blvd. north to Pinnacle Peak Road, while the
Upper Ranch stretched for almost six miles north from Pinnacle Peak Road. The western
boundary of the DC Ranch was present-day Scottsdale Road, while the eastern boundary
was the summit of the McDowell Mountains. Today’s Brown’s Ranch Trailhead
is part of the old Upper Ranch.
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Li and her always gracious smile. [photo by Tom]
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A penny for your thoughts, Tom. [photo by Li]
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Kevin savors the moment. [photo by Li]
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Nine Trailblazers on Brown’s Mountain. [photo by Lin]
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| front: |
Tom, Li, Lin, Ramona |
| back: |
Ralph, Terry, Neil, Billie, Kevin |
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Enjoying the views from high atop Brown’s Mountain. [photo by Ralph]
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Lin captures the moment. [photo by Tom]
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Ramona takes in the expansive views, with Cone Mt. below. [photo by Li]
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Along with his ever-expanding ranching empire, E.O. Brown was also a highly successful and
respected member of the community. He was responsible for much of the early development of
Scottsdale, serving as its postmaster, school trustee, and even irrigation director. He was vice
president of Western Oil Company, president of the Scottsdale Cotton Gin Company, and
controlling stockholder of Farmer’s State Bank of Scottsdale. Downtown
Scottsdale’s Brown Avenue is named in his honor for his many contributions to the young
and growing City of Scottsdale.
After E.O.’s death in 1937, his eldest son E.E. “Brownie” took over ranching
operations and continued to purchase additional tracts of land in the following years.
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Time to head back down the trail. [photo by Tom]
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But cattle ranching throughout this area gradually begin tapering off during the 1950s and
1960s, as the economy boomed and tens of thousands of people begin to pour into Arizona.
Threatened with ever-increasing urban sprawl and development (sound familiar today?), an
environmentally critical voter-approved initiative in the year 2000 authorized the City of
Scottsdale to buy much of the old DC Ranch’s Upper Ranch land and add it to the
McDowell Sonoran Preserve.
But the preserve actually got its initial start in 1994 with just five square miles of desert.
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Barry is heading down the Brown’s Mountain Trail. [photo by Joe]
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Sharon and Barry, with Cone Mountain in the background. [photo by Jeanne]
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Joe, Barry, and Chuck pause for a picture. [photo by Jeanne]
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Hiking along the Cone Mountain Trail. [photo by Jeanne]
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Working our way through a boulder field. [photo by Jeanne]
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Chuck, Sharon, Joe, Jeanne, Susan, and Barry stop for a picture. [photo by Tom]
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The year 2019 marks the 25th anniversary of the McDowell Sonoran Preserve.
This preserve, along with the Phoenix Sonoran Preserve, the Phoenix Mountains Preserve,
and a sprawling network of 12 Maricopa County Regional Parks, Preserves, and Conservation
Areas, stretching from the White Tanks to the McDowell Mountains, provides protection and
preservation for nearly a hundred thousand acres of pristine and unspoiled Sonoran Desert
that would otherwise be consumed by development, for this and hopefully many future
generations to come.
But just like every single National Park or National Monument across America, none of these
preserves or regional parks were created without the on-going hard work, commitment, and
dedication of thousands of people, often over a period of many years or even decades.
Preserving and protecting critical lands is never an easy task.
Instead, it’s a never-ending struggle.
Today the McDowell Sonoran Preserve is the nation’s largest urban land preserve,
encompassing a total of 57 square miles, or 36,500 acres, that borders the Tonto National Forest.
Founded in 1991, the McDowell Sonoran Conservancy is tasked with protecting and preserving
this vast preserve through a combination of environmental education, training hundreds of
volunteers, or Stewards, to work in and help protect the preserve, and becoming a key part of
a growing movement to change the laws that facilitate the conservation of Arizona’s
State Trust Lands.
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Arizona Trailblazers are on the move. [photo by Li]
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Hoofing it down another long stretch of trail. [photo by Lin]
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One last group picture along the trail. [photo by Li]
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Riders of the Purple Sage (anyone remember the book?) [photo by Lin]
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A perfect giant saguaro. [photo by Lin]
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A not-so-perfect saguaro. [photo by Li]
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And now, back to the trail. When we reach the short spur trail to the top of Brown’s
Mountain, half the group starts up the trail, while the rest of the group continues down the
Brown’s Mountain Trail. We gradually work our way around Brown’s Mountain,
before finally linking up with the Cone Mountain Trail that encircles Cone Mountain.
At the junction of the Hackamore Trail and the Latigo Trail, Michael’s contingent of
long-haul hikers splits off from the rest of the group and continues on the Latigo Trail back
to Brown’s Ranch Trailhead.
The rest of us take a short rest and snack break somewhere along the Cone Mountain Trail,
and shortly afterward I get a call from Lin over my radio that her group is doing the same.
We both continue hiking after the break, and eventually the two groups meet up once again
for one last group picture.
They take one path back to the trailhead, while we take a different path. Finally, both groups
converge on the Brown’s Ranch Trailhead around 11:45 AM. After putting our gear
away and cleaning up, most of the group decides to stop for a late lunch at Lush Burger in
Scottsdale.
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Lunch at Lush Burger: Kevin, Ramona, Billie, Neil. [photo by Tom]
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Lunch at Lush Burger: Li, Ralph, Jeanne, Sharon, Michael, Terry. [photo by Tom]
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Lunch at Lush Burger: Chuck, Joe. [photo by Tom]
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The sun is still shining and the temperature is a very pleasant 65 degrees on yet another
perfect day for a desert hike in Arizona. Does it really get any better than this?
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