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Table Top Mountain
November 27, 1998.
Location: 34 miles West of Casa Grande, Arizona
This
hike—like Quartz Peak, another BLM trail—is located in a wilderness area,
and finding the trailhead involves a long drive on typical bumpy, dusty,
"primitive" Arizona roads. Once the trailhead is reached, however,
there is abundant reassurance that you've arrived. The Table Top
trailhead includes picnic tables, a large information display, parking
"for ten vehicles", and most important of all after a long bumpy ride,
a vault toilet. One intuitively prepares ones self, both physically
and mentally, before entering such a facility, even when there is running
water—which in this case there was not. But upon entering the toilet,
I was shocked to find that it was not only sparkling clean and odor free,
but there were actually two rolls of toilet paper installed, neither of
which appeared to have ever been dropped down the well. This alone,
in my mind, makes the trailhead worthy of National Landmark status.
Eleven people went on the hike altogether; aside from myself there were
Jeannie and Tom Van Lew and their son Jon, Richard DeSouza, Rick Scott,
Ben Velasquez and his son Alexis, Rudy Arredondo, Elaine Cobos, and Tony
Grundon. We left the parking lot of the Home Depot just south of
Ray and I-10 at 7:30 am, and an hour later were on Veekol Road. From
there it was about 15 bumpy miles past beehives and intransigent cows,
then through the Arizona scrub to the trailhead. The roads shown
on the USGS map for Table Top Mountain appear to be relatively accurate,
for a change, at least if you follow the route given on the AZ BLM trail
description. There was one other truck at the trailhead when we arrived.
The air at the trailhead was thick with bees; while they were fortunately
relatively docile honeybees, we nonetheless wasted litle time in picking
up our packs and heading down the trail.
For its first half mile, the trail is an old jeep road, winding along
the flat valley floor between two small mountain peaks that stand like
ancient sentinels before the steep face of Table Top Mountain two miles
beyond. Alongside the trail are scattered a surprisingly large number
of dead Teddy Bear Cholla and Saguaro, many of which appeared to have been
struck by lightning. Among the living are countless of the same and
other varieties of cactus, Palo Verde, creosote, and numerous other types
of desert scrub, grass, and chapparal. The trail is lined and bordered
with a colorful assortment of stones, many of which do not appear native
to the area.
The jeep road ends after about half a mile at a large sign-in and information
box. We signed in, and read a few of the comments left by previous
hikers. One that caught our attention claimed to have made it to
the top, still 3 miles away and 2000 vertical feet above, in 2-1/2 hours
just a month after having heart surgery. Needless to say, that set
the mark to beat for our determined team. We were the only ones who
had signed in for nearly a week, despite the trail being heavily marked
with bootprints.
The trail is much less distinct beyond the box, but still well trodden.
Among the larger rocks alongside the trail are blocks of nearly black lava
and basalt, long slides of which can also be seen on the steep slopes of
the smaller mountains surrounding the main peak. There are also large
irregular boulders of severely deformed and partially metamorphised rock,
which have a strong layered structure consisting of schists and two or
three other minerals.
About a mile from the trailhead, the trail starts to hit some steeper
stretches, crossing a few washes and then climbing up onto a low, flat
ridge between two washes. The rocks encountered were still widely
varied, including basalt, scoria, schists, red shale, chalcedony, feldspars,
sandstone, jasper, quartz, and the occasional vein of what appeared to
be limestone. It is difficult to imagine that all of these were quarried
in the TableTop area. The trail gradually steepens a bit more, and
begins climbing through a shallow, rocky chute that somewhat resembles
a little man-made streambed lined with basalt talus. This eventually
reaches the foot of the mountain after a long 2-mile hike.
To this point the group was still all together, with the exception of
Rudy, who arrived late and had not yet caught up with us. But once
on the switchbacks, we quickly separated into three groups—the Sprinters,
including Ben and the two teenage boys; the Moderates; and the Molasses
Brigade, of which I am always proud anchorman. My pace on this particular
trip was expectedly slow, (1) having had nothing to eat since Thanksgiving
dinner 18 hours earlier, and (2) not having any of my usual fast-digesting
energy sources with me. But the weather was beautiful, the strengthening
morning sun now disappearing behind a thickening sheet of cirrus and altocumulus,
and the temperature in the low 70's with a refreshing 5 knot breeze that
freshened as we climbed higher.
Rudy passed us a little way into the switchbacks, and thereafter was
seen only at a distance. The trail here was constantly steep despite
the switchbacks, similar to the Quartz Peak Trail, which is also BLM.
The trail climbs 1500 feet in the last 1.5 miles, which corresponds to
a climb ratio of 5:1. At one point the trail crosses a massive descending
ridge of gray boulders which looks like it had to have been piled up intentionally,
but which might possibly be of volcanic origin.
After some more of the deformed, metamorphised rock and lots of red
shale, the trail climbs into the thick capping layer of basalt that is
largely responsible for the mountain's distinctive shape. We rested
for several minutes at one point to watch a hawk which sat perfectly motionless
a few hundred feet overhead, his wings spread wide, expertly riding on
the rising air currents sweeping up the side of the mountain as he scanned
the ground below for a likely-looking meal. (No, wait, he's watching
us—maybe we'd better get moving again!)
Atop the basalt layer is a rounded mantle of sediment a hundred or so
feet thick, upon which the trail gradually levels out and then ends on
the rock-strewn top of the mountain. A 6-foot high wood pole planted
marks the top where the trail ends. We crashed out on the rocks of
our choice as we arrived, and had our lunch. The slowest of us had
made it in 2 hours and 20 minutes, beating the guy with the new ticker
by ten minutes—thus validating the ludicrous theory that we ourselves were,
more likely than not, still among the living.
The view from the top is excellent, though restricted from the North
to the Southeast by the bulk of the mountain. Despite its name, Table Top
Mountain's top is really more like a gentle U-shape, opening to the West.
The trail ends on one prong of the U, on the southwest side. The
other prong appears to be higher by some 30 or 40 feet (though I haven't
verified this on the adjacent USGS map) and blocked much of the view in
that direction. It would have been at least another half mile or
more to get to the other side, so no one was interested in giving it a
try. Except Rudy, that is, who apparently had already claimed the
North Peak by the time I arrived on the summit, and had headed off in search
of some new adventure.
Among the sights visible from the summit are the Sand Tanks to the West,
the Sierra Estrella to the North, and the Picacho Mountains and looming
Santa Catalinas to the Southeast. To the South, Kitt Peak is visible,
along with the striking summit block of Baboquivari jutting up against
the hazy horizon. Closer by, the lower peaks surrounding TableTop
were all visible from above, their sides streaked with black lava rock
slides.
After about half an hour on top, it was time to start back down.
As with the trip up, the group broke into the same three subgroups, the
Sprinters arriving back at the trailhead a good 45 minutes before the Slowpokes.
But in the end they received sufficient punishment for their haste; for
not only did they miss out on some striking geology along the way, but
they had to contend with an almost Hitchcock-esque bee situation at the
trailhead, as well. By the time the rest of us get back an hour and
a half after leaving the summit, they were more than anxious to get out
of there. Several had even taken refuge inside one of the vehicles, where
the bee density was only slightly lower than outside.
We eventually shooed them out, loaded up, and were on our way.
As we were leaving, a pickup pulling two horses in a trailer pulled into
the lot; those horses must have enjoyed the lumpy ride in. We never
did see the owner of the red truck, or anyone else for that matter.
In summary, it was an interesting hike, but very long. It should
not be attempted in warm weather unless one can reach the trailhead by
about 7 am, as there is almost no shade available. The trail is steep
and covered with debris on the switchbacks, though the footing is much
better than it had been on Quartz Peak the previous April. I would
recommend this trail for anyone who enjoys a long, moderately demanding
hike through Arizona's arid desert mountains.
The above listed trip reports--documenting day
hikes, backpacking trips, and car camping trips organized and arranged by the
Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club, Inc.--are meant to be more of a record of the
various events performed by the hiking club and are not meant to be the only
guide for anyone else wishing to do the same hike or backpacking trip. Instead,
they should only be used as a supplemental to an official guidebook that
addresses that specific hike or backpacking trip. Natural changes (floods,
fires, windstorms, etc.) can occur and change and alter the landscape. The
Forest Service sometimes changes the routing of a trail. Trail junction signs
can be removed or altered. For these reasons, the hiking club's trip reports and
even the official guidebooks may no longer be totally accurate in describing the
trail and its layout. There is always the possibility, however remote, of a
hiker sustaining harm or injury while on any hike, no matter how safe it may
initially seem. The Arizona Trailblazer's Hiking Club, Inc., as well as any of
its officers, directors, representatives, and designated hike leaders, disclaims
any liability or responsibility for accidents, injuries, damages, or losses
whatsoever that may occur to anyone using the trip reports that are available on
our website. The responsibility for good health and safety while hiking,
backpacking, or camping, ultimately rests with the individual. |