North
Summit of Pass Mountain
March 5, 2000
by Jeffrey Cook The plan for this hike
didn't solidify until 3 pm on Friday, March 3, so
it wasn't surprising that only a few people
showed any interest in going along. To make
matters worse, the skies turned ugly Saturday
afternoon, and the weather forecast was calling
for intermittent rain on Sunday becoming more
steady towards evening. And so at the scheduled
8am starting time on Sunday, Matt Martin and I
stood alone at the Wind Cave trailhead.
The sky at the time really didn't look too
bad; there were heavy gray clouds about, but
there was clearing to the West, and the cloud
ceiling appeared to be about 4000 feet with no
rain visible. It looked like conditions would
continue to improve for a while, at least long
enough for us to wind our way up the trail and
traverse the ridge to the little-visited North
Summit. At the same time, we made sure we were
adequately prepared if things turned runny.
The temperature was a slightly chilly 46°F as
we hit the trail, with a 10 to 15 mph wind
blowing. The granite gravel of the trail surface
was wet, but firm and clear, and we made
excellent progress, reaching Wind Cave without
stopping to rest. As we paralleled the dacite
cliff bands below the cave, we could see that the
clouds were moving at about 20 knots from SE to
NW, contrary to the general westerly flow of the
passing storm system. This meant that the weather
atop the ridge would be determined by whatever
was blowing over Apache Junction between the
Usury and the Superstition rangeswhich, of
course, we wouldn't be able to see until we
reached the top of the ridge.
We continued after a short break, and reached
the top of the ridge just below the South Summit
at about 8:45. We glanced over toward Apache
Junction to seejust as a matter of
curiosity, of coursewhat the approaching
weather was like on that side of the mountain. A
dense cloud bank hugged the towering West face of
the Superstitions, completely erasing any sign of
it down to about 3000 feet. Closer to our little
ridge, a light to moderate rain fell on Apache
Junction from clouds of about the same height.
The local winds drove them broadside against Pass
Mountain, whose higher ridge points to the North
were just starting to fade away behind the rising
clots of gray.
Fortunately we had both
been to the North Summit before, so we knew we'd
be able to find it in poor visibility. We started
the boulder hop across the ridge. As we scrambled
around the steep outcrops near the low point of
the ridge, a light rain began to
fallsideways, mind youand we took a
brief break behind one outcrop to don our
raingear. In the whipping winds, my 99¢
emergency rain poncho proved to be worth at least
a good deal of its retail cost; after fighting
with it for several minutes, at Matt's suggestion
I decided to sacrifice my fanny pack to the
elements and strapped it around the outside of
the poncho to hold the bloody thing down.
We continued along the ridge, reaching the
3250-foot middle summit with little difficulty
except for the 10-yard visibility that obscured
from view all but the nearest residents of this
normally desert environment. The North Summit,
which should have been clearly visible from here,
was nowhere to be seen, and in fact we couldn't
even see the normally obvious saddle in between.
We therefore had to make a best guess as to the
exact angle of descent, hoping to catch a glimpse
of either the saddle or the North Summit through
the clouds before we hit the Salt River.
As we made our way down the rocky slope, we
were fortunate enough to catch a brief glimpse of
the North Summit through a small hole in the
clouds. It was enough to confirm that we were
headed in the right direction, and a few minutes
later we caught sight of the distinctive,
moss-covered slabs of the saddle. The North
Summit was still locked in thick cloud, but we
knew we had to make a gradually ascending
traverse of its southern buttress for a certain
distance, then head straight up the steep slope
to the summit. We did this without trouble, the
wind now at our backs, and in fact the footing in
the gravelly soil that filled the slope between
talus and boulders was better in the wet than in
dry conditions.
Soon we could make out the upright boulders of
the summit, and at 9:30 we arrived on top. My
indisputably precise zipper thermometer read a
nice round 40°F, and we found little cause to
dispute that figure. I immediately opened my
summit register box to see who else had been up
there since my last visit on November 26. It had
been signed by about 8 people since then,
including a party of 2 on February 5 and two more
the following day. Both pen and pencil were still
in good condition and functional, and the log
sheets were still crisp, dry, and relatively
unmutilated. There were even some comments of
appreciation on the front sheet for having
installed the register. This was a pleasant
surprise, though of course it could hardly make
up for the absence of monetary contributions to
offset the cost of providing and maintaining such
a luxury.
We remained on the summit for about 15 minutes
with our backs to the wind and, for the moment,
light rainlong enough to sign the register
ourselves, have some breakfast, try out our cell
phones, and enjoy the lush scenery provided by
the uniform mass of colorless slop that firmly
entombed the mountain. We then zipped up and
strapped on our soggy packs and headed back down
the way we came.
The wind and rain now in our faces, we picked
out way back down to the saddle and up onto the
middle summit, and then again made our best guess
as to the exact direction of the ridge below. As
we descended into the bowl-shaped drainage
between peaks, by this time more or less soaked
from neck up and mid-thigh down, we found
ourselves a good 30 degrees off route, having
descended a good 60 or 80 feet below the
preferred line. We bore right and climbed back up
toward the top of the ridge, now looming just
visible through the murk, and were quickly back
on target. While not the best route, I believe
our path to be well-marked for future visitors by
shreds of my yellow rain poncho, which left
pieces of itself on the prickly Sonoran
vegetation at more or less regular intervals.
We scrambled and hopped our way back across
the near knife-edge of the southern third of the
ridge into a clearing in the clouds, and were
rewarded for our timing by a beautiful view of
the conical South Summit. For the dozenth time on
the hike, we wished one of us had brought a
camera; then again, neither of us had been
willing to risk his camera in the face of the
damp weather expected. We completed the traverse
and, as the rain continued, again stepped onto
the trail where it meets the ridge. Having made
good time and with ample energy, and being as it
was such fine Scottish weather, we quickly hopped
up the remaining 50 yards to the South Summit to
complete the traverse of the main ridge.
After a ten minute rest on top, we turned back
down the trail, passing by a group of 3
poncho-protected ladies just below the summit. We
continued down the trail. By the time we passed
by the Wind Cave again, the rain had slacked off
to a moderate drizzle. There were at least a
dozen other hikers standing around under the
overhanging rock of the cave, most of them in
shorts or equally unprepared for the cold, wet
weather. The hike out had by that time turned a
bit muddy in spots, but was easy and uneventful.
The rain stopped about 3/4 mile from the
trailhead, which we reached at about 11:30. We
pulled off our rain gear and threw our gear into
the back of my Jeep. While rather more moist and
a bit cooler than your typical Phoenix-area
outing, we both agreed that it had been a
satisfying and enjoyable hike.
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