Mt. Graham Car Camp
July 16-18, 1999
Leaders: Tom and Jeannie Van Lew
The monsoons
have hit the state hard the last few weeks. Dust storms with their
walls of dust creep across the valley, rain pours down in buckets,
hikers get stranded on Mt. Lemmon and the Bright Angel Trail in the
Grand Canyon gets washed away. These have been the happenings of
the last few days prior to our trip to Mt. Graham. Even after the
fateful call from the Safford Ranger office informing me that there are
no toilet and facilities at the campground a number of die-hard,
never-give up hikers and campers met on this sky island for a weekend
we'll not soon forget. In all we had in attendance: Tom, Jeannie
and Adrienne Van Lew and Sandy, Angie Lien, Lisa Bradley, Steve Kilgore,
Joyce Parrish, Geri Dull, Dennis and Joyce Murphy, Michele Pagano, Jim
Kranzberg, Meera Desikamani, Vijay Parthasarathy, Terry Connacher, Lisa
Neutrelle and Jagma.
Tom, Adrienne, and our dog, Sandy left early in the afternoon.
I rode with Angie to keep her company. After stopping in Safford
to pick up the permit for the campsite, we began our accent up the
mountain on the Swift Trail. Beginning at the desert floor we
began winding our way around the mountain and soon we were among black
alder, native walnut, velvet ash and sycamore trees. We passed
through Turkey Flat, a summer home area, where we began to spot
Ponderosa pine, Douglas fir and some Aspen trees. After 22 winding
miles we were at the end of the paved road and had not reached the
campground yet. We pushed on and after only a mile of dirt road,
we found our destination - Upper Hospital Flat Group Campsite.
Hospital Flat was so named because it was used as a hospital during the
hot months by the soldiers from Fort Grant at the base of the mountain.
There were trees in the area that were 8' in diameter!
We chose our campsite and began to set up our tents and rain tarps.
We were hoping we wouldn't need the rain tarp, but we put it up to hedge
our bets. After dinner we joined Tom, the trusty fire tender, at
the campfire. We discussed when we should expect the next couple
of vehicles when a bright flash of light and crack of thunder warned us
of what was to come. 30 minutes later, at 9:30 we were forced to
leave our lovely campfire and seek out dry shelter under the tarp.
We decided since the sun was down and it was raining afterall, that we
would just call it a night and wait and see if anyone else would be
joining us.
Sometime later in the night, I could hear the pitter patter of drops
on the tent fly when two bright lights lit up the sides of the tent.
After a few moments of uneasiness not knowing who these new-comers were
we found out they were Lisa and Steve. No they had not seen anyone
else out there and yes they were going to put up their tent in the rain.
Sometime later we were again awakened by more approaching headlights.
It was nice to discover that the newest arrivals were Joyce and Geri
along with Michele and Jim. Now were only missing the Presslers,
but since they have children, maybe they decided not to come.
By morning the rain had stopped, the sky was clear, the birds were
singing! Well, the rain did stop at least! And I know I
heard some birds, or was that the squirrel chattering? While
eating breakfast we made our introductions and decided to hike the Ash
Creek Trail #309 to the falls. We cleaned up, left a note for
anyone else who might come in late and headed further up the road.
We passed another camping area and two creeks. We stopped to have
a "Kodak Moment" at Post Creek to enjoy the water cascading
down the hillside only to disappear under the road.
Continuing on we reached the Columbine Visitor Information Center
where we got directions to the trailhead and further information about
the trail. The trail begins at the back of the Columbine Camp Area
and meanders down the slope through a forest of Aspen with signs of a
fire not too long ago. As we descended down, down, down, I knew
that some time later there would be up, up, up, but I chose not to think
too much about that. It wasn't long before we reached Ash Creek,
one of several year-round streams in the Pinaleno Mountains. Here
it was hardly wider than an irrigation ditch. But it was swift
running and COLD!
We found many relics along the route such as a boiler for a steam
engine, remains of an old sawmill,and logging flume. I can't
imagine the difficulty trying to run the timber down this mountainside
in a logging flume and have it be cost advantageous. I spotted a
LARGE Western tiger swallowtail butterfly, with wings a bright yellow
and black markings. Ash Creek babbled down the canyon through beds of
skunk cabbage, Rumex, a relative of rhubarb, thimbleberry bushes,
thornless Blackberry, and red osier dogwood with their small white
flowers bloomed at streamside. As we descended lower and the trail
meandered alongside the creek we saw beautiful flowers, such as Shooting
stars, cardinal monkeyflower, wood violet and deer vetch and the yellow
Columbine, some of which I had never seen before. We learned that
the seed for the blue Columbine has never reached this sky island in
Arizona, so all you find here are the yellow Columbine.
We found the sign for the horse detour around an area of slick rock
but we chose the short cut. The trail continued along the creek,
where we had to carefully cross slippery granite rocks, tiptoe across a
"sheared up" portion of the trail along a granite face and
then cross the creek which was moving remarkably fast. I began to
have visions of falling in, but that is another story of another hike.
We all crossed safely and continued down the stream. We saw places
where the water plunges down into deep pools and thought, is this the
waterfall? No, I decided, on we must go! I think everyone
wanted to stop for a lunch break, but I pushed them onward!
We continue on, then through a break in the trees we caught our first
glimpse of Ash Creek Falls! Although we were some distance away it
was a beautiful scene. With all the rain we had been having, the
falls were much more than mere ribbons of water spilling downward 200
feet! We each found our own way to view the falls, some choosing
to creep to the edge of the out-thrusting rocks, inching forward to get
a view of the entire falls. Back up on the trail was a nice place
to stop for our lunch. A breeze kept us cool as we looked outward
to the Gila River Valley far below. After Sandy entertained us
with her love of apple cores, we packed backed back up, and took the
detour route.
Bringing up the rear, as I usually do, I discovered I no longer had
the radio I had been given responsibility of. I went ahead until I
finally reached the intersection of the detour and Ash Creek Trail where
Gail and Joyce were waiting for me. I explained my blunder,
telling them I was going to go back, and they could wait for me or go
ahead, as I was sure I would find the radio on the trail. Not only
did they not listen, but they returned with me, what troopers!
Nearly 3/4 of the way back up the detour trail we found the lost radio,
lying on the trail with it's little red light blinking.
The three of us trudged back up the trail. I listened as the
group ahead of us gave us their progress. We'd go for a bit, then
we'd have to stop to allow our hearts to slow down. We'd go a
little further and stop again. We finally came to the last creek
crossing and I knew we had those switchbacks to do yet. OK, one
more stop and we're almost there. Will they all be waiting for us
at the trailhead or across the street with the cars? We can only
hope they are at the trailhead. NO? OK, a few more steps,
that don't seem as heavy as they were coming up the hill. Guess I
made it afterall!
After returning to our campsite we discovered two more additons to
our group, Meera and Vijay and then Terry, Lisa and of course Jagma (see
the Fall 1998 Reavis Ranch hike for our first encounter with Jagma, the
hiking dog!) We all had dinner and finished just before it started
to rain again. Since the fire was already blazing we pulled out
our umbrellas and ponchos and continued to sit around the campfire until
after dark. Slowly people began turning in, after making sure the
fire was out, we did the same.
The next morning we awakened to rain. During a break we fixed
breakfast and began packing up. Most everyone decided not to do
another hike that morning and planned to head home. I love Mt.
Graham and the Pinalenos. I hope to return, maybe not during
monsoon season, however.
The above listed trip
reports--documenting day hikes, backpacking trips, and car camping trips
organized and arranged by the Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club,
Inc.--are meant to be more of a record of the various events performed
by the hiking club and are not meant to be the only guide for anyone
else wishing to do the same hike or backpacking trip. Instead, they
should only be used as a supplemental to an official guidebook that
addresses that specific hike or backpacking trip. Natural changes
(floods, fires, windstorms, etc.) can occur and change and alter the
landscape. The Forest Service sometimes changes the routing of a trail.
Trail junction signs can be removed or altered. For these reasons, the
hiking club's trip reports and even the official guidebooks may no
longer be totally accurate in describing the trail and its layout. There
is always the possibility, however remote, of a hiker sustaining harm or
injury while on any hike, no matter how safe it may initially seem. The
Arizona Trailblazer's Hiking Club, Inc., as well as any of its officers,
directors, representatives, and designated hike leaders, disclaims any
liability or responsibility for accidents, injuries, damages, or losses
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while hiking, backpacking, or camping, ultimately rests with the
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