Grand Canyon Backpack Trip
Those attending were: Todd Houser, Tracy Lavigne, Dawn Lavigne,
Jarvis Lowndes, Carolyn Parker, Joyce Parrish and Robert Bonne.
Day 1
We arrived at Mather Campground at various times; Jarvis, Todd, Joyce
and Carolyn set up their tents; Dawn and Tracy arrived after dark and slept
in the Jimmy. There was some confusion where the camp sites were reserved,
as we weren't on the main bulletin board roster (Todd had left a message
on the side bulletin board). Robert was not able to find the site, so he
slept in his car. Temperatures were quite a bit cooler than Phoenix, and
got even colder in the nighttime; seemed like 30° or so! Everyone retired
pretty early. Joyce and Todd helped me set up my brand new tent.
Day 2
We woke up shortly after daybreak and ate our oatmeal and drank our
coffee and began preparations for the hike down. There was some confusion
about where we could park our cars, as they no longer allow parking at
the South Kaibab trailhead. So we parked in the Bright Angel Lodge parking
lot and rode the bus to the trailhead, arriving around 9:00 a.m. or so.
After posing for a group shot, we began our descent. There was a bit of
snow and patches of ice at the top and the going was fairly steep. But
nothing too treacherous. The temperature seemed about 40° or so.
We carefully made our way down and within a few hundred vertical feet,
the ice was gone. I developed some hot spots that very quickly escalated
to full blown blisters. I know, stop when they're hot... Easier said than
done when you are balancing 50 pounds of weight and trying to avoid puddles
-- if you know what I mean... Dawn stayed behind, monitored the painful
progress and secretly carried my extra water bottle.
So, we continued down, down, down, stopping at 1.5 miles at Cedar Ridge,
which had a pit toilet. Unfortunately, there is no water available until
May 1, so we needed to take more water to compensate, which added to the
weight of the packs. A few of us attended to our feet; a few of us stayed
just a few moments and trudged on. Meanwhile, the temperature was steadily
rising; the sun was out full force with no shade; the packs were heavy;
the feet were sore. But the trail was surprisingly navigable. From all
the stories you hear, and what you conjure up in your mind, I was apprehensive
about this trip, but found the trail not that much different from many
other local trails, just on a grander scale.
The temperature was about 80° by the time we reached the Tip Off.
I was very dizzy, weak and shaky. It looked and felt like heat exhaustion.
Dawn said I hadn't been eating or drinking enough, although I had been
eating and drinking as I normally do on day hikes. Apparently carrying
that extra weight on your back is enough to require lots more calories
and hydration. Dawn was pretty concerned, and had been radioing ahead advising
everyone that I wasn't doing very well... The rest of the group was about
an hour or so ahead of Dawn, Tracy and me. Todd agreed to hike back up
and relieve me of my pack, which was very much appreciated. Hey, rookies
are allowed this luxury --at least once! I was able to make much better
progress. Dawn and Tracy took their time, recuperating, no doubt, from
their valiant vigilance.
So,
we eventually all arrived safe and sound and settled in for the evening,
with the rushing Bright Angel Creek just a few feet away. Todd retired
fairly early. Robert and I explored the area a little, and he and Jarvis
visited the Phantom Ranch Canteen for some refreshment.
Day 3
Everyone woke up fairly early, feeling both tired from the previous
day's exertion and energetic. It was such an achievement to get this far,
but most of us wanted to conserve energy for the hike out the next day.
Plus, we had some pretty sore muscles and feet! Not to mention blisters
on top of blisters!! OUCH. We explored the area, taking in some spectacular
views. It was quite gusty, though, and at least two peoples' hats went
skyward; one was rescued; one was not. Let's just say Dawn has a brand
new cap for her heroic efforts... We arrived back at the campsite in the
late afternoon to the news that there had been a main water pipeline break,
and we would have to conserve water: no water was to be used for cleaning
purposes, toilets were not be flushed; instead, we were instructed by the
park ranger to flush with a pail of creek water and refill it at the creek
-- a few, slippery feet away. Fun, especially in the middle of the night!
Some of us went to a ranger talk in the amphitheater. Some of us visited
the canteen. One of us (hmmm...whom could that be?) bought some water to
wash her hair. Relief!
In the middle of the night, Joyce sprained her ankle, and it was quite
swollen the next day. Dr. Dawn bandaged her up, which prevented it from
getting any more swollen. She also monitored my blisters and alarmingly
swollen toes. Scary!
Day
4 -- Easter Sunday
It was a gorgeous morning as we headed up to Indian Gardens. Robert
had gone ahead as he was doing the climb out in one day, to be back at
work on Monday. We monitored his progress and he was up in record time
with no problems to report! Todd and I gained a little ahead of the rest
of the group, with Todd gaining even more in a short while. For the most
part, the weather was ideal; a little rain, but at least the sun wasn't
beating down on us. As we made our way through the switchbacks (I think
they call them Devil's Corkscrew), I lost sight of Todd ahead of me and
the rest of the group behind me. It was a little scary, but I kept reminding
myself of what Dawn taught me on the trek down: keep hydrating and eating
at a minimum of every 20 minutes. It worked! I arrived alone at Indian
Gardens about 2:30 or so (to the best of my recollection) and didn't see
Todd, so I waited about 45 minutes on the park bench at the campground
entrance. Then I decided to use the facilities; when I got back, there
was Jarvis, then Dawn, then Joyce! They had already arrived and forged
ahead to the group site. Dawn was happy to have her flock together once
again, still all in one piece.
It
was a misty trek up; it soon started to rain, then HAIL! Our campsite was
a cold, muddy, mess. Tracy and Jarvis continued their card game, and pretty
soon the weather broke and we set up our tents. We walked around the area
around sundown, we hiked 1.5 miles out to Plateau Point and took some nice
photos along the way.
The night time was especially trying for Dawn and her daughter, Tracy.
They had anticipated some beautiful nights under the stars, and had not
brought their tents. With all the rain, they put their sleeping bags on
top of one of the picnic tables. It was a restless, uncomfortable night
for them both, and I am sure we were all feeling a lot of sympathy!
Day 5
So, Dawn and Tracy headed up Bright Angel ahead of the pack, to utilize
the little energy they had left after the battle with the elements. The
packs were heavy, it was cold, and were all a little apprehensive about
the last, dreaded 1.5 miles up. But, we eventually made it. Todd moved
ahead of the pack, but promised to head back down and relieve us, if needed.
Jarvis moved ahead of Joyce and me, and continued at his own pace, as well.
So, it was just Joycey and me, plodding along at a pitiful, little pace.
Eating and drinking. Eating and drinking. Gotta keep that stamina up.
About
1/2 mile or so from the top, here comes Todd to the rescue again!!! He
brought some water, relieved Joyce of about 5 lbs. in a fanny pack, gave
it to me, and took my pack. I finally made it all the way up (Todd had
made it up already for the second time), and I passed him on his
way back down to relieve Joyce of her pack. What a guy!
About 2:30 or so, we were all heading on our weary way back to PHOENIX!!!!
Home Sweet Home.
P.S. This report needs to be supplemented by everyone else's "moments".
I am sure it will be a work-in-progress for awhile!
The above listed trip reports--documenting day
hikes, backpacking trips, and car camping trips organized and arranged by the
Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club, Inc.--are meant to be more of a record of the
various events performed by the hiking club and are not meant to be the only
guide for anyone else wishing to do the same hike or backpacking trip. Instead,
they should only be used as a supplemental to an official guidebook that
addresses that specific hike or backpacking trip. Natural changes (floods,
fires, windstorms, etc.) can occur and change and alter the landscape. The
Forest Service sometimes changes the routing of a trail. Trail junction signs
can be removed or altered. For these reasons, the hiking club's trip reports and
even the official guidebooks may no longer be totally accurate in describing the
trail and its layout. There is always the possibility, however remote, of a
hiker sustaining harm or injury while on any hike, no matter how safe it may
initially seem. The Arizona Trailblazer's Hiking Club, Inc., as well as any of
its officers, directors, representatives, and designated hike leaders, disclaims
any liability or responsibility for accidents, injuries, damages, or losses
whatsoever that may occur to anyone using the trip reports that are available on
our website. The responsibility for good health and safety while hiking,
backpacking, or camping, ultimately rests with the individual. |