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Babe Haught Trail (#143)
August 20, 1998
Hiking
Central Arizona (Kiefer) describes the trail as being 2.2 miles long, climbing
1300 feet (6400 to 7700 feet) to the top of the Mogollon Rim from a trailhead
behind the last building of the fish hatchery at Tonto Creek. However,
this information appears to be outdated, as we found a new trailhead barely
20 feet past the sign at the entrance to the hatchery. A sign at
this trailhead indicated a distance of 3 miles to Rim Road (300), which
is some distance past the 2.2 mile mark measured from the old trailhead.
I estimate, therefore, a trail length from the new trailhead of about 2.5
miles, though it seemed barely 2 miles to me. This must be what they
mean by "your milage may vary".
Anyway, this time I at least remembered my faithful, reasonably-well-broken-in
hiking boots, the ones I left sitting in my garage with two fresh coats
of silicone when I went to Mt. Whitney. The comfortable looseness
of their fit has caused me to revise my estimate for the ones I wore at
Whitney from a half-size too small to a full size too small!
We hit the trail at 7:45 am. There was only one other car in the
lot when he arrived. The trail winds up the Rim through the eastern
edge of the vast region devastated eight years ago in the Dude Fire, which
consumed a 21-mile stretch of Rim forest. The lower part of the trail
meanders under moderate tree cover through almost waist-high grass.
The trail is almost invisible at times through the grass, but still easy
to follow if you lead with your stick—advisable anyway in tall grass.
The grass is very soft, too, and feels cool and comfortable on your legs
on a warm day like this one. Watch out for small log steps hidden
under the grass.
The grass becomes more occasional and less dense after the first half
mile, as you enter the fire zone and the trail becomes a somewhat steeper
walk through rock and sun-baked soil. Innumerable lifeless, often
coal-black hulks of trees still stand in various states of intactness,
plus many more rotting on the ground, bearing testimony to the total immolation
that occurred here in 1990. Nonetheless recovery is well under way,
with Manzanita growing like wildfire everywhere, and Oak saplings and Hackberry
coming back strong as well. There were a few junipers scattered here
and there, apparently recovering much more slowly than the others, and
I don't recall seeing any pines coming up at all.
With so little shade and temps rising into the mid-eighties, it got
pretty warm on the Eastward-facing slope which the trail climbs in lazy
switchbacks, but compared to a long Phoenix Summer, it was quite bearable.
The trail is a bit indistinct for much of its length, but still easy to
follow, and marked every so often by sometimes ridiculously large cairns.
It gets more rocky as you climb, passing through several bands of sedimentary
rock along the way. The footing is a bit loose in places, but John
did it in ordinary sneakers and had no trouble at all.
The views are excellent almost the whole way due to the lack of tree
cover; there are several good views looking down on the fish hatchery.
Rolling hills can be seen for 30 miles or more to the South, with the Rim
looming a thousand feet high to the North and East. The rising sun
added to the effect, casting ever-changing shadows into the steep fissures
and ragged alcoves of the Rim's crumbly sedimentary slopes.
After a little over an hour, we were getting close to the top.
About 200 feet below the Rim we ran across a rattlesnake curled up in a
little cubbyhole between three rocks on the uphill side of the trail.
Remembering Jim Johnson's presentation of hiking safety and medical practices
from the August MHC meeting, we backed up and skirted around his location
about a foot outside the trail, as far as we could get without plunging
down the steep slope into the valley below. That gave us the recommended
four feet; and indeed, Mr. Snake looked pretty happy in there, and from
his silence appeared satisfied with the distance we were giving him.
Five yards past the spot we set a perfectly rectangular cobble upright
on a flat rock to mark the spot coming down.
I led with my stick the rest of the way, tapping out a constant warning
of our approach; for the upper part of the trail was littered with loose
rock, some natural and some piled up to mark the trail boundary.
It occurred to me that in snake country it's not such a good idea after
all to build loose rock walls along the edge of the trail! Fortunately,
we didn't encounter any more snakes. There were lots of lizards,
though, and LOTS of bumblebees. Every hackberry had its compliment
of busy bees. Fortunately these giant fuzzballs are relatively docile
creatures, unlike the wasps we occasionally spotted.
Finally we climbed up on a gently sloping, grassy, rock-strewn plain,
where the trail pretty much petered out. Since we were obviously
on top of the rim, we decided to call it the end of the trail. We
would have gained a few dozen more feet if we had kept going, but would
have lost much of the spectacular view around us in the process.
We sat down in the shade of a dead tree (the fire had burned most of the
trees on top of the Rim as well) to rest and have some lunch. The
trip up had taken just over an hour.
We had the whole area to ourselves—the promontory on which we sat and
the steep canyons on either side. We had noted several sets of footprints
on the trail going up; it had rained Friday night but not Saturday, so
we didn't know if they were fresh or from the day before. After about
half an hour, eating our lunch and watching a bald eagle gliding noiselessly
overhead on the vertical currents blowing up from the plain below, we packed
in our trash and headed back down.
Mr. Snake was still in his cubbyhole when we passed by, but as we stayed
on the outside of the trail again, he let us pass without a warning.
I again led with my stick the whole way, so the walk down took a liesurely
40 minutes. Halfway down, we passed by a half dozen or so people
and two dogs heading up in three seperate groups. A bit of a late
start, we thought, especially on a warm day during monsoon season; but
the weather was still good, with just a few light clouds starting to build
up atop the Rim. We could also see visitors arriving in the fish
hatchery below. We got back to the trailhead at just before 10:00,
the shade of the trees and the soft grass cooling us down nicely from the
hike.
While my normal hiking target is mountains, I would rate this as an
excellent hike of moderate difficulty. At lower elevations and without
the snake, it would be a good family hike in cool weather. The views
and the isolation are excellent, though this is paid for to some extent
by moderate exposure and the lack of shade. I highly recommend this
trail if you are going to be up in the Rim area.
The above listed trip reports--documenting day
hikes, backpacking trips, and car camping trips organized and arranged by the
Arizona Trailblazers Hiking Club, Inc.--are meant to be more of a record of the
various events performed by the hiking club and are not meant to be the only
guide for anyone else wishing to do the same hike or backpacking trip. Instead,
they should only be used as a supplemental to an official guidebook that
addresses that specific hike or backpacking trip. Natural changes (floods,
fires, windstorms, etc.) can occur and change and alter the landscape. The
Forest Service sometimes changes the routing of a trail. Trail junction signs
can be removed or altered. For these reasons, the hiking club's trip reports and
even the official guidebooks may no longer be totally accurate in describing the
trail and its layout. There is always the possibility, however remote, of a
hiker sustaining harm or injury while on any hike, no matter how safe it may
initially seem. The Arizona Trailblazer's Hiking Club, Inc., as well as any of
its officers, directors, representatives, and designated hike leaders, disclaims
any liability or responsibility for accidents, injuries, damages, or losses
whatsoever that may occur to anyone using the trip reports that are available on
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